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The Beginner Gardener’s FAQ: 9 No-Nonsense Answers to Common Questions

Learn from the Best!

Whether you’re finding this blog from a quick internet search, or you’re a Seeds of Life client, we’re here to support you on your journey to growing your green thumb!

Gardening doesn’t have to be difficult - and frankly, we don’t think it should be.

Lots of companies, people, and websites are full of information on specific plants, gardens, and techniques. Some contain great information, some are labeled as beginner friendly (but definitely aren’t), and some contain downright lousy information. If we’re honest, even we get overwhelmed by them sometimes, so how is a beginner supposed to navigate everything?

Our solution: publish simple, high quality information that anyone and everyone can understand and follow.

At Seeds of Life, we make a living growing and selling strong, healthy plants, and we’re not about to gatekeep the best part of nature. So, welcome, fellow and future plant lovers! You’re part of the family now.

This FAQ is the companion article to our Beginner Gardener’s Guide. We recommend giving that a 5 minute read first, then coming back here if you still have questions.

Because we’re a proud small family business based in Central Florida, our customer service is what makes us stand out. Client or not, we’re here to help you with your growing adventures. When you run into questions, please feel encouraged to reach out to us via email, social media, or even a phone call (where YES, you will talk to a REAL person!).

Now, let’s get to the bottom of 9 questions new gardeners encounter.

Q: My plant tag has a zone number. What does that mean?

A: The zone tells you where this plant grows best.

The US Department of Agriculture publishes a zone map, and this map is the guideline US plant sellers use to indicate where plants grow best. By “best,” we mean “where the plant grows most naturally and with the least amount of effort.

It is possible to grow a plant outside of its zone - either with extra attentive care, or by caring for it indoors. This is a bit more advanced, so when you’re just starting out, look for plants that share your plant zone.

Q: How often should I fertilize?

A: Once or twice a year with a slow release fertilizer.

Some folks make fertilizing out to be super complicated. It’s really not. Most home improvement stores sell different types of fertilizer, and the different types contain different ratios of nutrients. Don’t let the numbers intimidate you. Instead, focus on the name of the fertilizer. A general “tree & shrub” fertilizer will work for, well, trees and shrubs. You get the idea.

You will want to look for a fertilizer labeled “slow release.” These fertilizers are better for the environment and save you a lot of money in the long run, because you don’t need to use nearly as much. With these fertilizers, follow the recommended amount on the bag and fertilize your plant about twice a year: once in early spring, and again in late summer/early fall.

Q: What does full sun/partial sun/full shade/partial shade mean?

A: These terms tell you how much sun the plant needs. Try and follow this to the T until you learn how your individual plant behaves.

Full Sun: 6-8 hours of bright, direct sunlight most days
Partial Sun:
3-6 hours of bright, direct sunlight most days
Partial Shade:
2-4 hours of bright, direct sunlight most days, OR steady, dappled light (like under the canopy of a tree)
Full Shade:
0-2 hours of sunlight most days; these plants are great for consistently shady spots, indoor areas like hallways, or spots that are pretty far away from sunny windows

Q: What indoor plants are easy for beginners?

A: So many! Pothos, Peace Lilies, ZZ Plants, and Snake Plants are all excellent starters.

These plants are all resilient, do well in pots, and like moderate to low amounts of light. Keep pothos and peace lilies near sunny windows, and enjoy your ZZ plants and snake plants in more dimly lit areas.

If the plant starts to look sad, try moving it a little closer to sunlight.

Water these plants thoroughly (fully saturating the soil, but not leaving them in standing water) once a week.

As an added perk, NASA’s Clean Air study found that peace lilies and snake plants are especially good at removing toxins from the air!

Q: What is pruning, and do I need to do it?

A: Pruning refers to removing excess, dead, or damaged growth from a plant to keep it healthy. It’s extra, but it is helpful.

Whenever a part of the plant dies or gets damaged, remove it with pruning shears promptly. This can be done at any point in the year, but the sooner, the better. This helps encourage new growth!

Generally, pruning is for aesthetic purposes. Try and wait for the winter time, when the plant goes dormant. Remove unruly branches and shape the plant as you like.

Each plant has its own specific pruning needs, so a little bit of plant-specific research here isn’t a bad idea. Remember, pruning is “extra.” No need to stress!

Q: How do I plan a garden?

A: Pick plants with similar needs and group them together.

Whole books can (and have) been written on this subject. The short answer involves taking stock of your climate and conditions, then picking plants that work well with those factors. Group plants that have similar needs together.

Remember those zones from earlier? The USDA Plant Hardiness Zone Map is your best friend when you’re looking for plants that might work for you.

Put full sun plants with other full sun plants in a sunny area; shade plants with other shade plants in a shady area. Try and match plants by water needs, too.

Is there more we could say? Sure.

Is this a good start? Absolutely. You can always move plants later on if the first spot you pick isn’t working.

Q: How often should I water my plants?

A: Start with once a week, and adjust from there.

Fully saturate your plant’s soil when you water it, but don’t leave it in standing water. Make sure your soil is well draining, or that your pot has drainage holes. This will allow excess water to flow through the plant without causing damage.

Use the 2 finger test: put your fingers a few inches (2-4”) into the soil by your plant. If it’s still damp, don’t add water.

A green droopy plant probably needs more water, and a yellowing droopy plant probably needs less water.

BONUS MATERIAL: Pothos plants are great for learning how to read your plants’ body language when it comes to water needs, since they tend to be really physically expressive.

Q: What do I do if my plant has pests?

A: Neem Oil!

It’s an easy to find, natural solution to most pest issues. Treat the affected area of the plant in the early mornings or in the evenings once every 2 weeks, for about 8 weeks or until the problem is gone.

Consistency is key, so be patient and diligent with your treatments every 14 days.

Pruning away damaged areas of the plant is another helpful tool for dealing with pests.

Q: What is an “established” plant?

A: A plant that’s got *roots*... Sort of.

Hold on! There’s more to it.

“Established” is a term that refers to how thriving and/or secure a plant is. Unlike maturity, which refers to the plant’s age and development stage, establishment is an indicator of stability.

Established plants have roots that you can’t just yank out of the ground, and the plant is capable of producing new growth (and does).

This designation is important when you’re moving plants, troubleshooting, or adjusting care for a plant. Established plants tend to be hardier, more resilient, and can tolerate more stress from issues than new/unestablished plants.

Didn’t answer your question? Get in touch!

Seriously, we mean it. It’s a FREE thing we do.

Emails, social media messages, or even phone calls are great ways to talk to a real expert from our company about your questions.

Who knows? We may just write a blog on it.

Happy Planting!

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